DAY 6: This was our biggest day of adventuring of the whole trip. We headed northeast about 32 miles to Toba Inlet. We got an early start and the water was perfectly calm so the ride was a breeze.
I always enjoy the soft colors of early mornings on the water.
As we approached Toba Inlet, the channels merging together and twisting around islands made for spectacular scenery.
We disembarked at the Wildernest, a former logging camp that has been ingeniously converted into a Wilderness Resort. These views set our minds to thinking about staying here awhile next time. But it is extremely isolated - three cabins and room for about six or seven boats on the dock. No towns for nearly fifty miles and while it is on the mainland, the mountains have prevented roads from springing up and so it is boat-in only.
We hiked up the hill above the Wildernest to this lovely waterfall. The hydropower from this stream supplies the electricity for the resort.
We bid farewell and entered Toba Inlet and came across a waterfall even more grand.
The kids liked it, too.
Then we headed south down Waddington Channel which splits East Redonda and West Redonda Islands, through the narrow cliffs of Walsh Cove Marine Park and down to Roscoe Bay for lunch. This bay is blocked by a drying ledge at low tide. Since we don't draw much water, we don't always pay attention to details like these, but we barely made it in.
There is a short path from the bay to warm Black Lake. The water was nice and there was a tiny "beach" spot perfect for the kids. But when a water snake swam around my ankles, we decided it was time to leave.
Then we headed east to the cruising hot spot of Desolation Sound, Prideaux Haven. It was full of nooks and crannies perfect for anchoring and swimming. But, no beaches and no good landing spots for the Whaler. We were also disappointed that there wasn't any camping spots nor were the cabins of Phil and Mike evident in the brush (detailed in "The Curve of Time" a memoir of cruising here in 1940s). But on the right boat, this spot would be really cool.
Lots of good sibling time on this trip.
DAY 8: Our last full day here and we still had one more area we needed to see. One of our favorite parts of camping is playing in the tent every morning.
We headed southeast and checked out camping possibilities on the Copeland Islands. Of all the spots on our trip, these islands reminded us most of the San Juans and had the camping best suited to our needs. Also, great sunset views.
We pulled into Lund for lunch. Lund is on the mainland and is the main jumping off point to Desolation Sound. It requires two expensive and long ferries from Vancouver to get here, and then people can hop on a water taxi and get just about anywhere - even up to Toba Inlet. The tiny harbor is packed with boats that these twenty-footers are lined up just like dinghies. We had a great lunch on the deck of the restaurant in the background - Eben proclaims it was the best salmon he'd ever had - likely because it was just caught that morning!
The boardwalk in Lund.
Then we headed a few miles west to Savary Island. It is a sandy, crescent-shaped island full of little vacation homes and forested lots. It was heaven! Tons of sand dollars at low tide and the best beach in Desolation Sound.
The main road is a sandy lane with driftwood flagpoles. Most people drive ATVs though there are a few cars. The island used to be serviced by an airstrip, but that's shut down now so it is boat in only.
Walking to the other side of the island (south side), the beach extended even further out and the views were impressive. At this point, I was seriously entertaining trying to get a vacation spot here - a small lot could be had for $50,000. But of course, there is no water, no sewer, and no electricity, so you have to be willing to work hard to turn a parcel into a habitable cabin.
Edison has been swimming a bit with a life jacket. He and Eben made it out to this platform.
The last campfire - so sad to go.
DAY 9: We underwent the "decathalon" of transport and gear work:
1) pack up our campsite, 2) move gear down to the dock and pack it in the boat, 3) take the boat back to Campbell River, 4) put the boat on the trailer, 5) drive 3.5 hours south to Sidney, 6) wait for the ferry, 7) long ferry ride back to Anacortes, 8) drive an hour home, 9) unload boat, 10) clean gear and put it away. Needless to say it was a looooooooooooong day. Charlotte conked out at stage three - this is her at the top of the boat ramp after we pulled the boat out of the water.
Waiting for the ferry. This is one we didn't want to miss, so we got there early and spent about three hours hanging out here. You can get a good idea of how we pack the boat from this photo - drybags with our clothes, tent, and bedding in them. Rubbermaid boxes and coolers in the back with food and camping supplies. This trip wasn't easy, but it was rewarding and we will always remember our adventures!
The ferry ride was exhausting but the kids just wouldn't crash. They were the annoying kids running around crazy on the ferry. Sorry if you were on that ride!