Overnight the rain stopped and was followed by a steady
wind. The wind dried everything out and even after that huge deluge, we were
ready to go without a bunch of wet gear. We packed up camp, put our ski hats
and splash tops on, and hopped on the river about 10:30 in glorious sunshine.
However, we had a headwind most of the day and we had to earn each river mile
with hard work. We had quite a few rapids and big, bouncy wave trains. Eben
rowed most of the time, but the kids took turns and I started working on my rowing
skills, too.
This section of the river was beautiful – it switched from a
river going through farm and rangeland and into a series of geologically
diverse canyons. Our plan for the day was to camp at Chalk Basin, which was our
original “night two” target camp at mile 25.5. We would have to skip a hike,
but would be back on track for the trip itinerary.
Our first stop was at mile 14, a camp called “Hike Out” which featured a great hike to the top of the canyon rim. We talked to a few friendly guides who’d stopped there for lunch with their customers. Then we hiked about halfway up the canyon to a little cave, a big bowl area, and a spectacular view of the river down below.
We ate lunch a few miles downstream and then stopped at the Rustler’s Cabin a bit further down. The remains of his set up of rock-walled cattle pens were impressive. We looked for a bit, but never found remains of his cabin.
A bit further down, we stopped again at Ryegrass Hot Springs. We were delighted to find the hot springs in better condition than the description we’d read and to have the place to ourselves. Sitting in that hot water (about 103F) after a long day battling a headwind on the river was absolutely the best and a highlight of the trip for me.
After spending a couple hours at the hot spring, we were so happy to find our target camp available in the stunning Chalk Basin (especially because the two camps upriver of that were full and we were losing hope that we’d have a spot). The camp was at the mouth of a creek and the boat fit perfectly into the creek mouth. The sun was dropping behind the canyon wall as we set up the kitchen area and tent. We were able to relax and take in the amazing scenery of Pruitt’s Castle and Lambert Dome. There is a cool hike up the backside of the Dome to the top, but we didn’t have time for it due to our rain delay the day before. Eben and Edison built a nice campfire and it was the end to a rewarding day.
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