Day 7 (Thursday, April 20, 2017): Halls Creek Bay to Tapestry
Wall, Defiance House Ruins, and the hotel at Bullfrog Marina
This was our day to head north up the lake. We knew we
didn’t have time to get all the way to the upper reaches, so we targeted some
of the more notable spots at this end. We took the boat up to mile 106,
Tapestry Wall, a steep sandstone face running at least a mile along the river.
There is a hiking trail to go up from lake level to the top of this wall and
look out over the mesa. After Eben’s herculean effort to secure the boat in a scoured
out bay, we soon found that we were on the wrong side of the bay and that to
get to the trail required traversing a very steep section of sandstone above
the water. We just weren’t comfortable with our kids and their footing to
attempt it. So, low water wins again and we were detoured from this hike. We then
went across the river to Forgotten Canyon. We again took the boat up as far as
the lake level would allow, then had to hop out and hike up canyon to the
Defiance House Ruins. There was a well-established trail and we only had to
hike about a mile to see them. These Anasazi ruins from about 1250 CE have been
stabilized and visitors are allowed to walk right up to them and actually enter
them. It was really amazing to be able to interact with history in that way.
There are several houses, a food storage area, a ladder going down into another
room and a chimney coming out of that space, too. On the cave wall above the
ruins are painted three very large warrior figures that led to it being called
Defiance House. The kids really liked seeing everything up close and going up
and down the ladder and in and out of the houses. It was shady, a nice breeze
was blowing, and it couldn’t have been a much more pleasant spot. We walked
along the hardened streambed on our way out of the canyon and it felt like a
freeway compared to the trail. Since we had a few more hours before dinner, we
also poked into Smith Canyon on the way back. We’d hoped to be able to get
upstream to some spectacular narrows, but the river was choked up with sticks
and logs and so we turned back around. However, on the way out, Eben spotted
the perfect cliff jumping spot and so we pulled up and he got to do his
singular jump of the trip. Edison and Charlotte got out to try it too, from
about eight feet up! As they were drying off after the jump, we noticed a giant
series of rainclouds covering the sky. Though we didn’t think we had rain on
the horizon, we flew down the lake to Halls Crossing Marina to inquire about
the weather. They confirmed that the rain should stay a hair north of us, but
that it was supposed to be very windy that night with gusts up to 40 mph.
Returning to our campsite, we weren’t sure if we wanted to pack it up that
night and stay at the marina hotel in Bullfrog that night – thus getting an
early jump on the drive home – or if we should hope for the best and enjoy one
last night under the desert stars with a toasty campfire. While contemplating
this for an hour while Reed napped on my lap, the wind started to pick up a bit
and succeeding in blowing Charlotte’s chair clean over, with Charlotte still in
it. At that point, Eben and I looked at each other and we knew we had to pack
up camp as quickly as possible. We were out of there in an hour with the kids’
help. The tent almost blew away with me and Reed in it while we were packing up
the bedding. The ride back to the boat ramp was super choppy but endurable.
Getting the boat on the trailer was quite a challenge for Eben in the
crosswind, but he managed to stay patient and methodical until it finally hit
the sweet spot. We then went right up the hill to the hotel and restaurant and
respite from the wind. After a delicious pizza dinner overlooking the lake and
the storm from high above, we each got to take a long, hot shower and peel the
layers of sand and grit away and finally feel clean again! The kids loved the
novelty of the hotel room and Eben and I even had a little patio to sit out on
after we put the kids to bed. In the end, it was the best choice and we were
all set up for our return home.
The challenges of securing the boat for the Tapestry Wall Hike.
Last legs of the Tapestry Wall Hike before calling it quits due to very steep, slick terrain across the head of the cove.
Hiking up Forgotten Canyon.
Can you see the ruins in the cave?
Excellent spot for cliff jumping in Smith Fork.
A little lower with the kids.
Do you see the front coming in behind the kids? That was our last picture on the lake!
