Iceland Day Three: Glaciers!

 My first stop was the 1-km long Fjadrargljufur Canyon (carved by a glacier a thousand years ago). The formations and towers that were carved into the palagonite rock and the sheer walls that were created are captivating. At the beginning of the canyon is a waterfall that still carves out more of the canyon today. The next stop was an hour east at the Skaftafell region of the Vatnajokull National Park. Driving to the park the Vatnajokull Ice Cap and exit glaciers start to come into view. I was fortunate that it was a partly-cloud day and I could catch glimpses of the mountains from time to time. I started with a three-mile hike to Svartifoss Falls that tumbles over a really interesting basalt cliff. The trail continued up to the "highlands" with views for miles of the Skeidararjokull Glacier to the east and the alluvial planes to the south. After that loop, I did another three-mile hike to the edge of the Skaftafellsjokull Glacier and lagoon. I walked up the edge of the glacier as far as I could go to the part where the ice is melting and it is just rocks and grit left with a silty river running out from under it. It was fascinating. Then I headed another hour east to the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon which housed giant icebergs that were falling off of other parts of the ice cap. People were touring them in open boats but it was very windy and cold and I was glad to be on land. Walking over to "Diamond Beach" (the coastal boundary of the lagoon) was a bust - there were no sparkly bits of ice on the beach to imitate diamonds but the black sand was beautiful. Finally I made a grocery stop in Hofn and then went to the Hoffell Baths - a hot springs with separate soaking tubs that looks upon the Hoffellsjokull glacier. I set up camp at the remote Haukafell Campground and shared a field with white canvas tents and sheep.